Frankfurt

Frankfurt

Frankfurt is a city of sharp, unapologetic contrasts.

The Frankfurt guide

An insider’s read on Frankfurt

FFrankfurt is a city of sharp, unapologetic contrasts.

Virtually flattened during World War II, Frankfurt made a conscious decision to rebuild as a modern financial powerhouse rather than fully reconstruct its medieval past. The result is a unique architectural landscape where a painstakingly reconstructed Altstadt sits in the shadow of Germany's only true skyscraper skyline. This tension between preservation and progress defines the local character. Frankfurters are pragmatic, direct, and fiercely proud of their local specialties, maintaining a distinct regional identity that refuses to be diluted by the city's transient, international corporate population.

Frankfurt
PLATE IFrankfurt, Germany

Frankfurt is a city of sharp, unapologetic contrasts. On one side of the Main River, steel-and-glass skyscrapers house the European Central Bank and global financial giants, earning the city its modern skyline. On the ground, just steps from these glittering monoliths, lies a gritty, fast-paced urban reality where high finance rubs shoulders with a raw, multi-ethnic street culture. It is a transit hub that many travelers only see through an airport window, but those who step outside discover a surprisingly compact, green, and deeply traditional Hessian city. Beyond the corporate boardrooms, Frankfurt lives in its neighborhood taverns and weekly markets. Here, the local currency is "Ebbelwoi" (apple wine), served from ribbed stoneware jugs in wood-paneled taverns that have changed little in a century. It is a city that does not try to charm you with superficial prettiness; instead, it wins you over with its efficiency, its world-class museum embankment, and an underground electronic music scene that helped shape modern techno.

Guides & ideas

The Frankfurt reading list

Hand-written guides from our editors — itineraries, the best of after dark, where to eat, and what’s genuinely worth your time.

The Bembel and the Boardroom: Frankfurt's Cider Houses Where the City Really Drinks

The Bembel and the Boardroom: Frankfurt's Cider Houses Where the City Really Drinks

A calm, street-level walk through Frankfurt's Apfelwein taverns — where bankers, students and grandmothers share the same cloudy glass and the same long bench.

Westend, Frankfurt: the quiet elegance behind the towers

Westend, Frankfurt: the quiet elegance behind the towers

A walk through Frankfurt’s most polished district, where Gründerzeit villas, diplomatic hedges and parkland sit just minutes from the banking skyline.

Sachsenhausen-Süd, Frankfurt: cider lanes, museums and the city’s lived-in south

Sachsenhausen-Süd, Frankfurt: cider lanes, museums and the city’s lived-in south

A walk through Frankfurt’s apple-wine quarter, where taverns, second-hand shops and the Museumsufer make the south feel more local than polished.

Ostend, Frankfurt: the Harbour Quarter Learning to Breathe

Ostend, Frankfurt: the Harbour Quarter Learning to Breathe

East of Frankfurt’s centre, Ostend folds the ECB, the river, the zoo and a working harbour into a district that feels mid-sentence rather than finished.

Nordend, Frankfurt: the city’s quietest luxury is a good coffee and a park bench

Nordend, Frankfurt: the city’s quietest luxury is a good coffee and a park bench

Frankfurt’s most lived-in quarter trades landmarks for rhythm: red-sandstone streets, serious coffee, leafy parks and the kind of evenings that end with wine under the trees.

Bornheim, Frankfurt: the merry village that still drinks like itself

Bornheim, Frankfurt: the merry village that still drinks like itself

On Berger Strasse’s upper end, Bornheim keeps Frankfurt’s village pulse alive with cider houses, market mornings, late terraces and a street life that feels stubbornly local.

Where to base yourself

The neighborhoods

01
Altstadt

Altstadt

For History seekers who want to be steps from the cathedral, though it can feel sterile and tourist-heavy in the evenings.

The reconstructed historic core of the city, featuring timber-framed buildings and grand squares rebuilt after wartime destruction.

Where to stay — High-end hotels near the Römer or modern apartments close to the river.

02
Bahnhofsviertel

Bahnhofsviertel

For Adventurous travelers who want cutting-edge dining and nightlife, but must tolerate visible drug use and street grit.

A gritty red-light district turned culinary hotspot, where grand Wilhelminian architecture meets a raw, fast-paced street life.

Where to stay — Trendy boutique hotels catering to a younger, design-conscious crowd.

03
Sachsenhausen-Süd

Sachsenhausen-Süd

For Travelers seeking old-world Hessian tavern culture, though it gets rowdy with weekend crowds.

A traditional district famous for its cobblestone alleys, historic timbered buildings, and rustic apple wine taverns.

Where to stay — Traditional guesthouses or mid-range business hotels.

04
Nordend

Nordend

For Families and slow travelers who want organic markets and a relaxed local vibe, though it lacks major tourist sights.

A leafy, intellectual residential enclave filled with Wilhelminian-style apartment blocks, independent cafes, and wine bars.

Where to stay — Quiet apartments or boutique rentals.

05
Bornheim

Bornheim

For Food lovers and shoppers wanting a local, community-driven vibe, though it is slightly removed from the river.

Known locally as 'Bernem,' this district feels like a self-contained village with a lively, unpretentious high street.

Where to stay — Mid-range apartments and local guesthouses.

06
Westend

Westend

For Travelers seeking peace, leafy streets, and proximity to the botanical gardens, though dining options lean expensive.

An affluent, quiet, and grand residential area characterized by elegant villas, manicured parks, and quiet streets.

Where to stay — Luxury hotels and upscale business properties.

07
Ostend

Ostend

For Architecture buffs and fans of industrial-chic design, though it can feel desolate on weekends.

A former industrial zone turned modern creative hub, dominated by the towering European Central Bank building.

Where to stay — Modern design hotels catering to business travelers and creatives.

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Where to eat

Dining

Fisch-Franke

Fisch-Franke

€€
Innenstadt

A Frankfurt institution serving fresh fish in a no-nonsense, traditional setting since the 1920s.

Signature — Pan-fried red fish with potato salad

Fischhaus

Fischhaus

€€
Bornheim

Unpretentious neighborhood spot known for generous portions of grilled fish and Mediterranean-style seafood platters.

Signature — Grilled octopus with garlic and olive oil

Frischeparadies

Frischeparadies

€€€
Griesheim

A high-end specialty market with an in-house bistro serving exceptionally fresh, sustainably sourced seafood.

Signature — Seared scallops with seasonal purée

Buffalo Steakhouse

Buffalo Steakhouse

€€€
Bahnhofsviertel

One of the city's oldest steakhouses, serving premium Argentine cuts cooked over an open fire.

Signature — Ribeye steak served on a hot iron platter

Muku

Muku

€€
Sachsenhausen

An authentic Japanese ramen and grill house focusing on rich broths and charcoal-grilled skewers.

Signature — Tonkotsu ramen with grilled pork belly

Adolf Wagner

Adolf Wagner

€€
Sachsenhausen

The quintessential Frankfurt apple wine tavern, featuring long communal wooden tables and robust regional fare.

Signature — Frankfurter Schnitzel with green sauce (Grüne Soße)

Apfelwein Solzer

Apfelwein Solzer

€€
Bornheim

A family-run tavern operating since the 16th century, offering a cozy courtyard and classic Hessian hospitality.

Signature — Handkäse mit Musik (marinated sour milk cheese)

Zur Sonne

Zur Sonne

€€
Bornheim

A historic timber-framed tavern on Berger Straße serving excellent house-pressed apple wine and hearty local dishes.

Signature — Boiled beef with Frankfurt green sauce

Lafleur

Lafleur

€€€€
Westend

Located in the Palmengarten, offering highly inventive, plant-forward and classic French-inspired tasting menus.

Signature — Multi-course vegan tasting menu

Gustav

Gustav

€€€€
Westend

Focuses on regional, artisanal ingredients reinterpreted through modern culinary techniques in a minimalist dining room.

Signature — Slow-cooked local trout with wild herbs

Aroma

Aroma

Nordend

Tiny, legendary falafel stand with perpetual lines, serving some of the best Middle Eastern wraps in the city.

Signature — Falafel wrap with fried eggplant and halloumi

Best Worscht in Town

Best Worscht in Town

Innenstadt

A local cult chain serving currywurst with customizable spice levels and high-quality local sausage.

Signature — Currywurst with jambalaya spice and traditional fries

Pizzeria Superbro's

Pizzeria Superbro's

Nordend

Hip, bustling pizzeria serving authentic Neapolitan pies with blistered crusts from a wood-fired oven.

Signature — Margherita pizza with fresh buffalo mozzarella and spicy salami

Seven Swans

Seven Swans

€€€€
Altstadt

A pioneer in sustainable dining, offering a radical, hyper-seasonal vegan tasting menu sourced entirely from their own permaculture farm.

Signature — Multi-course seasonal root vegetable menu

Savory

Savory

Bockenheim

A fully vegan diner known for hearty comfort food, including plant-based burgers, wraps, and homemade cakes.

Signature — Vegan bacon cheeseburger with sweet potato fries

After dark

Nightlife

Tanzhaus West

Tanzhaus West

Gutleutviertel

Industrial techno club housed in a former printing factory, known for its raw atmosphere and top-tier underground DJ lineups.

Silbergold

Silbergold

Innenstadt

A compact, subterranean club playing a mix of indie, house, and techno, attracting a diverse student and local crowd.

Rote Bar

Rote Bar

Altstadt

A moody, red-lit drinking den popular with creatives and night owls, offering classic cocktails with a view of the river.

NFT Skybar

NFT Skybar

Westend

Located high up in the NH Collection Spin Tower, offering panoramic views of the Frankfurt skyline and art-inspired cocktails.

Jazzkeller

Jazzkeller

Innenstadt

A legendary basement jazz club that has hosted greats like Louis Armstrong and Miles Davis since 1952.

Batschkapp

Batschkapp

Seckbach

A historic rock and alternative music venue operating since the 1970s, hosting international touring bands.

Ponyhof

Ponyhof

Sachsenhausen

A cozy, intimate venue hosting indie bands, singer-songwriters, and quirky local club nights.

Art & history

Culture

Städel Museum

Städel Museum

Sachsenhausen

One of Germany's most important art museums, housing seven centuries of European art under one roof.

Senckenberg Natural History Museum

Senckenberg Natural History Museum

Bockenheim

A massive museum famous for its extensive dinosaur fossil collection and biodiversity exhibits.

Deutsches Filmmuseum (DFF)

Deutsches Filmmuseum (DFF)

Sachsenhausen

An interactive museum dedicated to the history, technology, and art of cinema.

Römer

Römer

Altstadt

The historic city hall complex dating back to the 15th century, featuring iconic stepped gables.

Main Tower

Main Tower

Innenstadt

A 200-meter-tall skyscraper with an open-air observation deck offering the best panoramic views of the city.

St. Bartholomew's Cathedral (Dom)

St. Bartholomew's Cathedral (Dom)

Altstadt

A Gothic imperial cathedral where Holy Roman Emperors were once crowned.

MMK (Museum für Moderne Kunst)

MMK (Museum für Moderne Kunst)

Innenstadt

Housed in a striking triangular building, featuring a world-class collection of post-war and contemporary art.

Portikus

Portikus

Sachsenhausen

A highly respected contemporary art gallery located on a small island in the Main River, showcasing experimental works.

Schirn Kunsthalle

Schirn Kunsthalle

Altstadt

A premier exhibition space without a permanent collection, known for hosting groundbreaking temporary modern art exhibitions.

Timing

When to visit

Spring

May brings pleasant temperatures and the opening of outdoor beer gardens and apple wine terraces, alongside the Spring Dippemess folk festival.

Summer

Warm and lively, with locals drinking along the Main River banks and attending the Museumsuferfest, though humidity can rise and business hotels are quieter.

Autumn

September and October see the Rheingau wine harvest celebrations and crisp weather, perfect for exploring the surrounding forests and cozy taverns.

Winter

Cold and grey, but redeemed by one of Germany’s oldest and most expansive Christmas Markets in the Römerberg, alongside hearty winter food in local taverns.

What it costs

Budgeting

Backpacker
€50-80 (dorms, street food like falafel or currywurst, public transit, free museum days)
Mid-range
€120-200 (boutique hotel, sit-down meals in apple wine taverns, museum entry fees, occasional taxi)
Luxury
€350+ (five-star hotel, fine dining, private tours, premium cocktail bars)
Logistics

Getting around

Map of Frankfurt

From the airport

The regional train station (Regionalbahnhof) at Terminal 1 connects directly to the central station (Hauptbahnhof) via S-Bahn lines S8 and S9. The journey takes roughly 11 minutes.

Public transit

The RMV network is exceptionally efficient, combining the U-Bahn (subway), S-Bahn (suburban trains), and trams. Tickets must be purchased and validated before boarding.

Passes & tickets

The Frankfurt Card offers unlimited travel within the city limits and discounts on museum entries; it is highly economical if you plan to visit multiple galleries. (Price band: €)

On foot

The city center, Altstadt, and Museumsufer are highly walkable. You can cross the entire downtown core on foot in under 30 minutes.

Travel smart

Safety & etiquette

Local etiquette

  • Never order beer in a traditional apple wine tavern; it is considered a minor insult to the establishment's heritage.
  • Always wait for the host to seat you in formal restaurants, but in traditional taverns, feel free to find an open spot at a communal table.
  • Cash is still king in many smaller bakeries, traditional taverns, and market stalls; always carry some euros.
  • Stand on the right and walk on the left when using escalators in S-Bahn and U-Bahn stations.
From the ground

Practical tips

1

Visit the Kleinmarkthalle on a Saturday morning to experience local food culture, but arrive before noon to beat the massive crowds at the famous Schreiber sausage stall.

2

Many museums offer free admission on the last Saturday of every month (Satourday), making it the perfect time for budget cultural exploration.

3

Avoid booking hotels during major trade fairs (Messe) like the Book Fair, as room rates can triple and availability plummets.

4

Take S-Bahn lines S8 or S9 for a direct, cheap connection to the airport, avoiding expensive taxi fares which can easily exceed forty euros.

5

When drinking apple wine, never use a fork to fish out the onions from your Handkäse; use a knife to spread the cheese and onions onto buttered bread.

6

Walk across the Eiserner Steg (Iron Footbridge) early in the morning for a crowd-free view of the skyline reflecting in the Main River.

Frankfurt FAQs

Is Frankfurt worth visiting for tourists?

Yes, if you look beyond the financial towers to discover its world-class museums, historic taverns, and vibrant culinary scene.

How do I get from the airport to the city center?

Take the S-Bahn S8 or S9 from the airport's regional station directly to Hauptbahnhof in just 11 minutes.

What is the local drink in Frankfurt?

Apfelwein (apple wine) is the local specialty, traditionally served tart and flat in a ribbed glass.

Can I get by with English in Frankfurt?

Yes, English is widely spoken across the city due to its international business community and major airport hub.

What is Frankfurt's green sauce?

It is a cold, creamy sauce made from seven specific fresh herbs, traditionally served with potatoes and hard-boiled eggs.